Garment and method of making it



March 30 1926. I I 1,578,969 R. A. FEISS GARMENT mi) METHOD OF MAKING IT Filed Nov. 13. 1922 v 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 45 4 //vvE/vra e 5 4 19/6/1429 A l-751.5:

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March 30 1926. 1,578,969 Y R. A. FElss I GARMENT AND\ METHOD OF MAKING IT Filed Nov. 13. 1922 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Avvavrae lQ/CHARD A/Z-Vss Patented Mar. 30, 19 25.

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GARME T Ann METHOD OF MAKING It.

Application ieemv'emper is, 19221. rgei No. 600,529..

To gill whom it may concern;

zBe it known thehRreHAn A. Fnlss, a citizen of: the -United States, residing at 9907- Lake .Ave, Cleveland, linlthe State. of Ohio end Guyahog'a County, heveinivented anew and usefulImprovementin. G ztrments and" Methods of h [eking Thenifof'Whiclrthe following is a s oeciticetiomutheprinciple of the invention. beinglherein explained and the 19 best mode in \vliic hrI have contemplated applyingv that principle, so as: to distinguish it fro mother invent-ions.- Y

This invent-ion relates to a: germentmnd also tothe method of marking it. 'i p My object has been tob oth' facilitateand innrove the manufacture of it gar i enti Apparel, such as for instance ZLVHIRDS coat, customarily comprises in its breast portionan outer or forepart, an inner strip 20 or facing overlapping .as meet. the (lining border, and severalreenforcing fabric pieces interposed bet-Weenthe forep-ert and facing.

lhese interposedfebrics are sewed together 21S* l21111i1'1lti0l1-5- and are'used to stiffen and hold. in shape: themost conspicuous, section I ofthe garmentQ As exemplified in the-drawings the three insert pieces are canvas, haircloth and felt cloth respectively and they arev tobe edditionally sevv n to the facing strip so that al of the pieces of cloth inwerdl'y adjacent to the forepart ere locked together as a unit.

Heretofo-re, so v inghas beensecured to the con'iposite stiffenmg insert by, the look stitchl or manually ettected bast-ingstitch applied to that borderof the facing which overlapped the stiffeningpieces; To ett'ecttlie. lock stitch it was necessaryto alsoufold the forepart' back rot penetrate but 1 even so the lock stitch agency because ithadto interruptechthet is eey, i l it' be c e i i uster the full lengh the section hecauseof; :t he pockets: and 'tlife'bar tracks-securing. the. same. Ea ti g-5 edsqare eb i ui ly a sl enly pe orm n e endfb cause f the t i ely pocket was encountered far as I am aivztre; the fac out of the way so that the loekstitches would p thereby fulfillinga long. felt want. has proven' to be an inadequate securing separated a lo se enee ien-m t b They cannotbind two pieces of fabric ffirn ly together sons, toprevent relative. move;- ment of one p ece alongthe, other with at-" tend'ant' puckering. end, even creased wrinklesj lvloreover j even the poor basting thre ad connection \vasomitted wherever 2i Such unsatisfactory results are exaggerated \vhen'the garment, becomes wet or when it is afterwards improperly pressed. Manife stly, a machine stitch would be not only stronger, but could 'h'enore quickly accomplished! Supposedly,

neither the parties 'in the trade ho bested the facing and" one or more reinforcing ,Ipieces together nor tli'e parties who our ployed the'lock stitches WlllCllWVQlGa1,1668% sarily separated at a pocket lmve realized-the possibility of. using a blindst-itch operation.

I discovered the feasibility of and have for monthssuccessively practiced a blind stitch runningithe entireilengtth of the pieces to be fastenedtogether, Without inter-r11 1): tion at any pocket and substantially along. the hue ivherevthe l ning overlaps the edge of the facing seam. The stitches are looped through the facing? seam and con'iposite in thereby so atteching them as to make it unit sert from one: end otthe latter to thebother withlessened tendencyto loseitsshape and I which-is Inorereedily restored to its proper 1 Accordingly, I believe I have improved a ,garmentby successfully applying an old mach ne stitch n a new- Way and a new shape when l distorted, through moisture or. hard usage.-

place so that the breast portion. of the gun merit will. much longer hold its shape and specifically prevent the facing from I bagging lor hanging loosely and prevent the front from a turning a or rolling outward,

Adverting to the c drawings Figurel plan. viewofthecomplete ,Iett ore-pert Pr s th inne twi ge he same materiel, a lining and} afplurality of ldifirently sheped laminated stiftenin or "l ving h I isra section on line III -III V sewn according to my improved method.

' The disclosed section of the garment includes the outside or forepart 1, an ad acent piece of canvas 2 of less width but substantially the same length, a strip of haircloth 3 inwardly adjacent in turn to the canvas, a piece of fabric 4 in turn inwardly adjacent to the. haircloth and optionally either felt or Panama cloth facing strip and lastly a lining-6. The relative positions 01 the parts just specified are clearly shown in Figure II. The forepart 1 is shown fashioned with a cutout '7 which conforms to the armhole and the canvas .2, and Panama or felt cloth 4 both have a bordering edge conforming to a portion of the bordering edge 7. The lining 6 is shown provided with a cutout or armhole 8' which, when flapped over will have its edge roughly conform to the edge of the cutout 7. I forepart I usually carries the two pockets shown, but we need concern ourselves only with the upper one which includes an outer side 9 touching the forepart and an inner side 1O against which the canvas 2 lies.

The reenforcing or stiffening units 2, 3 and 4 may be stitched together at various points by any most convenient or economical means such stitching being designated in its entirety by the reference numeral ll because nothing is claimed for the preliminary manner of attaching those three parts. The three stiffening parts 2, 3 and 4 are of the three different shapes well shownin Fig ure I, the canvas 2 being defined by edges 2 and 2 the haircloth by edges St and 3" and the felt or Panama cloth by edges 4 and 4". The edge 2 of the canvas will determine the line of eventual fold to produce the coat lapel 12.

The facing 5 is to have a'concealed edge to form' together with an overlapping edge of the lining 6, a seam l3 eXtending from one longitudinal end of the garment section under consideration to its other end, and crossing the upperpockti It is this sea'i'n which has always been heretofore, so tar-as my knowledge extends, unsatisfactorily"secured to the reinforcing inserts as ex- "lhe inside of the.

plained in the preamble of this specification. For a better understanding of what my invention has proposed and made possible of successful accomplishment, attention is invited to the figures on Sheet 2.

A blind stitch machine of standard construction comprises a table top 14, a presser foot 15-v and an adjustable plunger 16. Above, is a rotary shuttle 17 carrying a hook 18 and a cast-elf 19. Pivotally mounted at 20 is an oscillating needle carrier 21 provided at its lower end with a socket 22 in-w-hich a curved needle 23 is to be detachably secured. Such a needle is provided on its lower convex side with a threadholding groove terminating at'the eye of the needle. One of the stitching threads 24 is to be fed through the groove in the needle 28 which after describing an arcuate" ath causes the thread 24 to form a loop 25 a ove the uppermostof the cloth pieces which are to be stitched together as is clearly shown in Figure .VI. A loop locking thread '26 shown in Figures III to V inclusive is passed through the loops 25 by the shuttle 17 in a manner well known to the art so as to form the blind stitch shown in Figures III to V. It will be observed upon inspection of Figure VI that an adjustment of the plunger 16 has been made, with reference to the arcuate path to be described by the eye of the needle, which will cause the thread 24 to pass through the lining 6, the facing 5,'felt or Panama cloth 4, haircloth 3 and canvas 2 in the order named, andto return through said, piecesin reverse order. r

I would have it distinctly understood that I make no claim to either the blind stitch machine nor to its performance of itself. I do, however, believe that I am the'first to discover the commercially, feasible possibility of employing a blind machine stitch to secure the lining and facingover their entire lengths either to the stiffening burlap alone at opposite ends or additionally to the haircloth and felt along a middle area at and just above the upper pocket. Thus all of the stidening members in the breast por tion are made a unit with the facing and more securely so with each other along the substantial longitudinal middle of the breast portion thereby establishing a factor of great improvement toward maintenance of the shape of the most conspicuous part of a mans coat. Moreover, the delicate adjustment which a blind stitch machine is capable of, enables the stitch to be continued even past a pocket without securin; together its opposite sides 9 and 10. In Figure IV it is well shown how the'loops 25' of the thread 24 enter the burlap '2 Without touching the nearest pocket material 10. Besides; the

therefore cheaper and generally more etof said materials on one side of said pocket ficient and successful. continuously 'along a line which passes I claim: across said pocket t The method of making itgfilll'liint using Signed by 111,- this 1 1 day of October, 5 a plurality of laminated materials one of 1929- .7

which carries an interjacent pocket,'wliich consists inblind stitching together certain RICHARD, A. FEISS. 

